Part 2 of my North Downs Way adventures took place on Monday of last week – the nicest day of the year so far, with the whole walk taking place in pretty scorching (for the beginning of April!) conditions. But what a walk it was! The slight issue was that I was due home to meet Papa (maternal grandfather) as he was staying that night, and we were late leaving (typical 45 minutes of unaccounted baby prep time), which meant I knew I was on a tight deadline to catch a train home without really knowing how long it was going to take, so did it at a fairly punchy pace which meant I perhaps didn’t enjoy all the views I should have.
Setting off from home, we walked to Merstham Cricket Club where the NDW leaves the village. They call themselves “one of the prettiest grounds in the South East”, and they’re not wrong:
The path is then uphill all the way to Gatton Park, about 6 km away. It’s a picturesque route across Reigate Hill golf course then into the Queen Alexandra school grounds before heading up the National Trust part of Gatton Park (the school is based in the old house and Capability Brown gardens), which is mostly woodland – nice shade! At this point I started passing more other walkers already than I had in the whole of my previous walk. Including some runners who clearly weren’t out for a gentle jog…rather them than me, although they may have thought the same about me of course!
At the time I thought I would have preferred a bit less hill at this point, but come the latter stages of the walk I was very glad I’d got the main ascent out of the way early. It was about 180m of total elevation gained, so not steep but fairly relentless.
The next stage was along the Reigate ridge, a path that follows a few decades of military history. First up is the Reigate Hill Fort, actually a very late example, coming from the 1890’s, when there were fears of war with France (how things changed!) – I didn’t go in due to time, but it looks relatively well preserved if empty.
A bit further along the ridge is a more sombre site, the location of a WWII American bomber crash – a story with a lot of family poignancy. My maternal grandfather had been a bomber pilot too, and had an amazing selection of similar near misses. I think they have marked it very sensitively, with two small benches in the shape of plane wings, looking out of the clearing across the countryside and down into Reigate.
At this point I had to stop taking photos with my phone as its battery isn’t up to both tracking such a long walk as well as doing other useful things. I did have my camera, but it was in the backpack and I was nervous of stopping too long to put No.2 down, get the camera out, take the picture and put it all back away again in case I missed the train… This did mean I didn’t take a picture of the stunning view at the end of the ridge out West, with a lovely stone rotunda commanding the view.
A little bit further along the path I left the NDW to detour via the only public house anywhere near this route, the Sportsman in the fantastically named village of Mogador. One of my favourite books introduced me years to the wonderful exclamation “Well, I’ll be mogadored!”, making visiting this village a personal mission from the moment I first drove past a road sign with it’s name on. While I think “village” was quite a big word for a small collection of houses, the Sportsman was a lovely place to rest. Unlike the previous couple of walks, No.2 was quite happy to come out of the pack-pack, and eat her Ella’s pouch while sat on the pub garden table. And I have to complement the sandwich I had, which was substantial and came with a big helping of salad and homemade coleslaw. And a half (I have learned something!) of Youngs Bitter, which was also very nice. And much needed!
But I knew I couldn’t rest long – while this was past the halfway mark, I wasn’t sure by how much – my tracking app said about 8.5km, and I reckoned it was about 13km in a fairly straight line in total (but knew it would be further in practice). So I set off back for the NDW, which once I rejoined it immediately made a VERY sharp descent from the heights of the ridge down to the plains. I am glad I went in that direction to be honest, as that slope would have been very difficult with the pack-pack. I passed a few young boys near the top who were clearly feeling it, and checking their phones to see how much further there was to go!
The path was then a bit less interesting, as it followed the bottom edge of the woods covering the side of the ridge. This meant that you couldn’t see as much, and also gave me a significant core workout in addition the cardio. The trees were low and over growing the path, and nervous after last time having caused No.2 to cry by catching her with a branch I was bending very low to make sure I didn’t do the same. I think this got me some odd looks from all the groups of older walkers that seemed to be out in force. Until they got level with me and saw her smiling face behind me and then they started cooing over her. Everyone was jealous of her, getting to do the walk without putting the effort in!
After a lot of woods, the NDW descended completely to the plains floor. I now knew both that I was approaching Betchworth, and also was pretty sure I was going to make my train, so was able to relax a little. This meant that when I left the NDW to take a more direct route to the station I actually noticed the scenery. Which was fortunate, as this path went through one of the most beautiful spots I have ever been to in this country. A little vale with a farm hamlet along the track that the path followed, with the hills and woods above, and open fields around, with a few animals in them. Then down to and along the railway, passing some houses I lusted after (Kemps Farm and Wildecroft), a tunnel under the trainline and tucked out of site in the corner of the field the gate into the footpath over the cutting that leads to Betchworth station, and a well deserved sit down for me, and get out and play for No.2!
The only disappointing thing was the vintage of my phone meaning that I didn’t have enough battery to either take many photos or track the complete length of the walk – it died short of my destination, meaning I only know that it cut out at 14.85 km, a bit less than half a km short of Betchworth. Gutted. But I did that in 2 hours 41 minutes, and that includes some time at the pub when as usual I forgot to pause it. In total, including pub time it took exactly 3 hours, as I arrived 30 mins before the train. And No.2 was delightful the whole time, and Southern even allowed us to make it home about 5 minutes before Papa arrived!
A really good day, although I felt the miles the following day!